Grist for the Mill: Winter 2023

When I first moved back to San Francisco from a few years in New York after college, I rented a little granny unit off Larkin and Union on Russian Hill. Here’s why it was one of the best spots EVER: One, it was three blocks from Real Foods and fantastic seasonal produce; and two, it was a half block from Roland Passot’s La Folie and some of the best dining in The City.

Even back then (and that was some time ago!) the Bay Area far surpassed most other regions in the nation when it came to year-round access to seasonal ingredients and top-notch restaurants. Even during the winter months, locally grown fresh fruit and vegetables were plentiful (and still are today).

This Winter issue celebrates the cold-weather gems unique to our region and wonder-fully in season at this time of the year, right when we need them most: sweet Meyer lemons that are equally at home in a creamy soup or in a vibrant curd tart. Truffles (the big bet for some Wine Country growers) lending their elegant flavor to even the simplest preparations. And toast-worthy sparkling wines from some of Sonoma’s lesser-known growers.

So many in our local culinary community also continue to realize the immense potential in our regional bounty. At West Marin Culture Shop in Point Reyes Station, local purveyors offer locally crafted meats, cheeses, fermented treats, and other local fare. The folks at New Alchemy distillers have crafted a canned cocktail using organic cheese whey that might otherwise have been discarded. At Lo & Behold in Healdsburg, they’re pouring a modern hot toddy made with sorrel, a vibrant infusion of dried hibiscus and spices. And, at Maison Porcella in Windsor, a master charcutier and his wife offer dishes made from expertly cured meats and complement them with the wines of local growers.

I’ll admit that cozy dishes have their appeal during the winter months. Yet our talented local chefs and makers turn the spoils of the cold-weather North Bay harvest into a rich flavor palette that is every bit as diverse and rewarding as in warmer times of year. So here’s to the gems of winter and the wonderful fresh flavors they bring.

Cheers!

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