Last Call: Lo & Behold's Jamaica-Inspired Hot Toddy
On Healdsburg Avenue, just a block away from the main square, entering Lo & Behold feels as if one has made a discovery. The cozy restaurant and bar is the brainchild of industry veterans Laura Sanfilippo, Tara Heffernon and Sean Kelley, who have collectively logged more than three decades in the area’s restaurants—Kelley leading the kitchen at Underwood Bar & Bistro in Graton, and Sanfilippo and Heffernon mixing drinks at Spoonbar down the street. In Lo & Behold, the trio have created a friendly space that is comfortable and lively, with an expansive and verdant patio space tucked in the back.
The food and drinks reference global flavors, incorporated in creative yet approachable ways, informed by the produce grown on Heffernon’s half-acre farm in nearby Forestville. Take for example their Kingston Toddy, a twist on the traditional Jamaican holiday drink served in December called Sorrel. The original drink is a blend of hibiscus, ginger, allspice, cinnamon and sugar, sometimes served over ice with a good dose of Wray & Nephew white rum. While Jamaican weather averages a high of 85° in December, Healdsburg hovers around 55. This inspired Sanfilippo and Heffernon to take those flavors and turn them into a hot cocktail.
“We created our own recipe for Sorrel by adding orange zest, cinnamon, cardamom, black pepper and star anise in addition to the traditional clove, allspice and ginger,” says Sanfilippo. “The result is full of flavor from the spices and citrus combined with the hibiscus that brings bright acidity, as well as florals and a rich viscosity.
Lo & Behold’s Kingston Hot Toddy breaks with tradition in more than one way. Rather than rum, the drink begins with Breaking & Entering, the whiskey blend from St. George Spirits in Alameda combining bourbon, rye and their own single-malt. Of course, it also needs rum, so aged Jamaican rum from Appleton complements the whiskey. Flora Luna Honey Aromatic Bitters from Petaluma contributes dark honey and floral notes along with a subtle spice. Lastly, the brightly hued sorrel is added hot, bringing in both color and spicy hibiscus flavor for the finishing touch. The Kingston Toddy transports the warmth and cheer of the Caribbean by the mugful.
Lo & Behold Bar and Kitchen, 214 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 707.756.5021; loandbeholdca.com
