Fall 2019 Issue

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When I submitted this issue’s story about a local company that offers guests the opportunity to participate in an old-fashioned grape stomp to our longtime copy editor, for fun I attached the image of me stomping grapes that is on the cover. Along with his edits, he sent back a note calling me “the George Plimpton of Edibility.” Of course I had heard of the acclaimed journalist and author but I had to do a bit of research to understand the specific reference. Apparently Plimpton was known for, among other things, his “participatory journalism.”

The association tickled me, and prompted me to reflect back on the last now 10+ years of publishing Edible Marin & Wine Country with an eye toward the many culinary-related experiences I have been blessed to actually participate in while planning our editorial.

From multiple outings to forage for wild mushrooms on the Marin and Sonoma coasts, to cruising Tomales Bay with the shellfish farmers of Hog Island Oyster Company, judging pies at the Marin Country Mart farmers’ market each fall, eating dried crickets on Mexico’s Riviera Maya (after imbibing mucho mezcal…), diving for abalone in the frigid Pacific, cooking duck egg omelets in my kitchen with Sammy “the Red Rocker” Hagar, to stomping grapes in Napa, it has been an extraordinary gift to have the opportunity to actively immerse myself in the stories of the good food and drink that are produced and enjoyed in our area and beyond.

The great news for you, our readers, is that many of the farmers, ranchers, cheesemakers, distillers, chefs, winemakers, brewers and other food artisans in our area offer visitors—not just magazine editors— the opportunity for hands-on experiences. To me, this is one of the best things about living in a region so dedicated to the local production of good food and drink. Check out the Edible Events Calendar in this and every issue for an extensive list of tours, classes, workshops and communal meals that provide an opportunity for your own “participatory journalism,” then share your experience with us—we might even publish your story!

Related Stories & Recipes:

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This paste and powder are must-have larder items for anyone who likes a kick of spice. The recipe will first yield four jars of the paste, one of which will then be made into a scant cup of powder. Together, they will enhance your cooking throughout the year by adding an incredible depth of flavor. To prevent the pain of volatile capsicum oil penetrating the pores of your hands, it’s smart to wear latex gloves when working with a quantity of chile peppers. How many sweet versus hot peppers to use depends on your personal threshold for chile spice.
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A staple in Provence, anchoïade is nothing more than anchovies, garlic and olive oil worked together with a mortar and pestle into a purée. At Chez Panisse we added walnuts and ripe, earthy figs to create a bold, sweet and savory spread for toasted slices of rustic country bread or a condiment for grilled swordfish. If you stock your larder with our Fig and Fennel Pollen Jam, throwing together a batch of this incredible treat is super easy.
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Fig jam is a wonderfully versatile pantry item to reach for throughout the year. The fact that it isn’t too sweet makes it a good condiment for savory dishes such as roast pork. It’s equally good to spread over your favorite whole-grain toast. Wild fennel pollen imparts the delicate flavor of anise, which complements the figs’ earthiness.
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I first had this dish in the Mediterranean village of Cassis, at a small restaurant that offered a multitude of different “all-you-can-eat” mussel dishes. Instead of using saffron, however, which is more classic, the restaurant used turmeric, also known as “poor man’s saffron.” The turmeric gives a glorious golden hue to the creamy sauce and is a worthy and interesting substitute for saffron.
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