Escoffier Questionnaire -Kevin Katsulis

THE DRAWING BOARD, PETALUMA

I find it impossible not to invoke Anthony Bourdain in this edition of the Escoffier Questionnaire. He is the EQ’s patron saint, even if “saint” is the last title he would want. In so many ways, what these questions were crafted to do is give readers a glimpse not just of the extraordinary individuals I interview, but of the collective spirit of those who cook to live: the irreverence, the passion (sometimes obsession), the camaraderie, the shared language. This conversation with Kevin Katsulis, executive chef of Petaluma’s The Drawing Board, brought me back into that world, into the quiet under the clatter of steel and ceramic.

IF YOU CAN COOK, YOU WILL ALWAYS WORK

Other than helping out at his parents’ office furniture business, Katsulis has only worked in kitchens. He started by slapping shmear at The Bagelry, an institution in his hometown of Santa Cruz. He quickly moved on to Hank’s At The Hook (RIP) and then Hoffman’s, which is where he “really started to learn.” First, from a New Zealander who mentored him—“I had bloated my resume a tiny bit. He could tell right away I had no clue. He said, ‘If you don’t know how to do something, tell me and I’ll show you.’”

A KNIFE CAN BE A TICKET ANYWHERE

Once he had gained some kitchen confidence and felt fully initiated, he sought out a greater challenge. At Suda, a hip spot close to his home, he had the opportunity to take responsibility and express his creativity, putting up specials (“that would probably make me cringe now,” says Katsulis), while seeing the ocean every day, and working with friends. Life was good. And he left. Because the chef ’s heart is a restless heart.

Katsulis left to take a summer gig in Alaska, cooking for a fishing retreat, preparing seafood just taken from the wild waters. He has been going back there every year since, though last year was probably the last. “It was really hard to be away from my family,” he confides.

IT NEVER LEAVES YOU

His next “regular” cooking job was running a farmers’ market operation, where he reconnected with the basics, like how to perfectly smoke a chicken. From there, he says, he fell back in love with fine dining at David Kinch’s The Bywater in Los Gatos. “You think you know a lot every place you’re at and then you go to the next job and you’re, like, ‘Oh, damn, I have a lot to learn.’” Working for Kinch, who is also the chef/owner of the Michelin-three-starred Manresa, meant the crew was full of aspirational hard workers. Katsulis loved it. The Bywater received a Bib Gourmand, a Michelin Guide recognition denoting excellence in dining at a reasonable price, in its first year of operation.

HOME IS WHERE THE HOOD IS

Katsulis’s wife is a Petaluma native, and when the couple decided to move north from the South Bay, he staged at different restaurants around the area before landing the sous chef position at The Drawing Board. “I was looking forward to not being the boss for a while,” he says. But right before he started, the restaurant’s opening chef left and he was offered the executive chef job. “‘Here we go,’ I thought,” he says. At first, he was worried about becoming the stressed, detached chef. “Just because you’re busy doesn’t mean you can be a jerk to your wife. I see this job ruin marriages. I don’t want to be that guy.”

A BAND OF PIRATES

Katsulis says that he has found The Drawing Board community to be a safe place for a healthy family life, as well as for creative ideas. “Everyone here is so talented and amazing.”

The restaurant is known for devotion to healthful decadence, with gluten-free, vegan and producer names familiar sightings on the seasonally changing menu. “At first, I wanted every dish to be all things healthy, but now I am relaxing more.” After getting settled into a new place for him, with its old relationships and ways of doing things, he says he has the kitchen humming along the way he wants. The thing about a kitchen is that wherever you may be and whatever food you may be serving, you will find kindred cooks. When people are making real food, with love, with the hard work necessary, there just isn’t any way to hide.

That realness is what made Anthony Bourdain so compelling, it is what makes eating at The Drawing Board so enjoyable and it is what makes writing this column so rewarding. Kevin Katsulis may not be as swarthy as the characters Bourdain brought to life Kitchen Confidential, but he is a pirate nonetheless.

Edible Marin & Wine Country: What was the first meal you made that you were proud of ?

Kevin Katsulis: I would say making fresh pasta for the first time. I had a light bulb moment that everything can be made from scratch.

What was your favorite food as a kid?

Pancakes. Always pancakes. What food do you wish you loved?

Cilantro. I hate using the cliché excuse that it tastes like soap, but as soon as it touches my tongue I cringe.

What food do you love unreasonably much?

Sweets. I’ve always had an unrelenting sweet tooth. I’m a sucker for anything chocolate.

What is the most difficult cooking technique to do well?

Smoking meats with real wood logs. It takes a lot of patience and practice. Most techniques in kitchens are fairly robotic and mundane.

What are you exploring in your kitchen now?

Subtlety. It’s something that takes a long time to gain. As I mature, I find myself more and more comfortable taking things off of the plate, rather than adding to mask lack of technique or experience.

What nonculinary influence inspires you?

People. A lot of cooks tend to forget they are in the service industry, just as much as the front of house. So, just talking to people day to day gives me an idea of what people are looking for when they go out. It is finding out what people want that inspires me to make my best dishes. After all, cooks are serving the people, not their own egos.

What is your idea of a very healthy meal?

Not to be a homer, but the Carrot Lox with Kimchi Pancake on our menu is my go-to healthy meal. It has loads of good, healthy probiotics and fiber—great for the body and packed with flavor.

What is your favorite ingredient?

Butter. It’s the base of almost everything great in cooking.

What is your favorite hangover meal?

A breakfast burrito, and it has to be way overloaded with melted cheese and chorizo or bacon, or both. And don’t overload with potatoes—nobody likes that.

What restaurant in the world are you most dying to try?

Le Train Bleu, Paris. It’s one of those old-school French-style places with the craziest looking dining room you’ve ever seen.

What kitchen utensil is most indispensable to you?

A knife. Most everything else can be done with a steady hand.

Who do you most like to cook for?

My wife and my son. Cooking for them is always fun and easy, without stress. Although, my wife is also by far my toughest critic. She will not hesitate to tell me she doesn’t like something I’ve made.

If you could do one other job, what would it be?

Sports talk radio. I could talk sports all day.

What is your favorite midnight snack?

Cereal has always been the late-night choice.

What most satisfies your sweet tooth?

There is nothing better in the world than a warm brownie with some milk.

What would you eat at your last meal, if you could plan such a thing?

Something basic, like a pancake, bacon and egg breakfast.

What’s your favorite place to go (and what is your favorite thing to order) for … … a splurge meal?

The Bywater, Los Gatos. I used to work there and the food is indulgent and decadent, but oh so satisfying. Not a lot of frills. Po boys, fried chicken, red beans and rice. Dave Morgan and Tom Ferdinand do it right.

… breakfast?

Zachary’s, Santa Cruz, a hometown favorite for me since I was 5 years old. Best pancakes ever.

… pastry?

My wife was an amazing professional baker in SF and left the industry to become a teacher. I get to enjoy her home baking. Her pies are insane. She also makes better cheesecake than me.

… a late-night/after-work meal?

Brewster’s in Petaluma. The chicken sandwich always hits the spot. I’m pretty sure it’s healthy, too.

… a cup of coffee?

My house. I rarely buy cups of coffee anymore.

… a greasy spoon meal?

Buckets Sports Grill in Soldotna, Alaska. I went there often while working summers in Alaska so I could watch the Giants games on TV. Great burgers.

… groceries?

Petaluma Market always has great produce, an amazing meat department and hot lunches everyday that are killer. Super nice people, too.

… kitchen equipment?

We’re lucky to have three places in downtown Petaluma: i Leoni, Sonoma Cutlery and Rex Ace Hardware. All three have come in handy in a pinch for us.

… ice cream?

Marianne’s Ice Cream is an institution in Santa Cruz for every local kid. The Mexican Chocolate was always a favorite for me.

… chocolate?

A chocolate milkshake. From anywhere.

And lastly but not leastly … what is your favorite local wine or beer for the season?

Henhouse Saison is super crisp and great for our still warm fall days. And we have it at our bar, which makes life easy.