I learned to forage for wild mushrooms in France in the early 1970s, when my neighbor took me under her wing and into the pine and oak forests, intent upon teaching me the ways of life in rural Provence. Prior to those expeditions, my only fresh mushroom experience was of the regular cultivated kind, daringly sautéed whole in butter by my college roomate and me using the two-burner propane stove in our flat in Aix-en-Provence.

My neighbor taught me how to sort for bon and pas bon, good and not good, as well as how to clean, store and cook them. Since then, I’ve foraged for mushrooms every chance I can get in France and here in Northern California, from the Mendocino coast to the hills of Napa County, usually accompanied by a knowledgeable forager.

Mushrooms can be found in the wild in many areas of Northern Calfornia, most notably along the coast and the inland forests. Should you decide to embark on mushroom foraging on your own, be absoultely sure to work with a knowlegable person. Mistaken fungi identity can be deadly. In France, there is an excellent system provided free by local phamacies. You bring your finds to the pharmacy counter, where they will be professionally identified—and, of course, commented on by the other customers. Lacking that service here, I recommend you work with one of the regional mycological societies and other organizations that arrange forays with professionals.

Of course, you don’t have to forage yourself to cook with interesting mushrooms. Unlike in the past, we have an abundance of mushrooms readily available to us that were once considered exotic, thanks to advances in the commercial production industry from leaders such as Far West Fungi based in Santa Cruz and San Francisco, Connie Green in Napa and KM Mushrooms in Santa Rosa, all of whom sell in local farmers markets (see below). Even my local supermarket reliably carries lion’s mane (my new favorite), oyster mushrooms, king trumpet, shiitaki and, in season, chanterelles and morel mushrooms, the latter sourced from professional foragers.

In some cases, the tastiest and easiest preparation is simply to sauté mushrooms in butter. The different types have different flavors and textures and this simple treatment amplifies their character. Lion’s mane, for example, looks like and is often the size of a small head of cauliflower. I cut it lengthwise into generous ò-inch slabs, add a little salt and pepper and sauté a few minutes on each side, just until golden brown. Heaven! It’s meaty and juicy, earthy and faintly sweet. It is truly a mushroom steak. King trumpets get the same treatment after their thick stems are sliced into rounds resembling and tasting somewhat like sea scallops. I use smaller mushrooms, sliced and sautéed, to top toasts or to add to a pan sauce for chicken, pork, or beef.

LOCAL MUSHROOM RESOURCES

FORAGING

If you are interested in joining guided forays and learning more about wild mushrooms—how to identify, clean, prepare, cook them and more—there are a number of North Bay organizations and experts dedicated to myco-logical endeavors.

The Mycological Society of Marin organizes mushroom forays, speaker events, mushroom feasts and cooking demonstrations. Their fifth annual mushroom festival, Wild in Marin, is being held at the Mill Valley Community Center on January 5, 2025. mycomarin.org

Sonoma County Mycological Association is dedicated to educating the public about the vast and diverse world of fungi, from offering identification of local mush-rooms, to growing and cooking, to organizing wild mushroom forays.somamushrooms.org

LOCAL PURVEYORS

KM Mushrooms, based in Santa Rosa, cultivates a wide range of mushrooms and produces mushroom products such as teas and tinctures. They can be found at various farmers markets throughout the area. Look for them Thursdays at Marin Farmers Market, Saturdays at Marin Country Mart Farmers Market, or check their website or call for farmers market details. kmmushrooms.com

Santa Cruz–based Far West Fungi sells fresh and dried mushrooms and mushroom grow kits at many North Bay farmers markets. Look for them Saturdays at the Napa Farmers Market and Tuesdays at the Petaluma East Side Farmers Market. farwestfungi.com

Napa’s Wine Forest was created by mushroom foraging trailblazer Connie Green, and is a source for fresh and dried mushrooms and mushroom products, as well as a range of other products based on foods from the wild. Wine Forest products can found in stores locally and purchased online. wineforest.com