Alli Keyser-Marti raises board building to an art form

A well-appointed and artfully arranged cheeseboard packs an uncommon amount of party power. It can direct the flow of traffic, partner happily with wine and cocktails, and provide a harbinger of any meal that may follow. Building a good one is anything but easy, so it’s helpful to learn some tips from the very best.

Alli Keyser-Marti has built her profession on a love of cheese. She started her journey as a teenager in West Sonoma, going on to manage Cowgirl Creamery’s original Point Reyes shop as well as the cheese department at Oliver’s Market Stony Point. She has followed her passion to small dairy farms all over France, in rural Ohio, at roadside stands in Sardinia, aboard ferries in Croatia and beyond. In 2024, she was selected as an Official Conference Cheesemonger for the American Cheese Society and holds leadership positions in several cheese organizations. At Gold Ridge Organic Farms in Sebastopol, she leans into her cheese knowledge by leading cheeseboard building workshops.

Like a master sommelier, Alli recognizes the processes and qualities that contribute to the very best cheeses and also knows that for cheese (as for wine) preference is entirely personal and flavor pairings akin to alchemy. Once you select a vessel to display your cheeses, here is how she suggests you craft the ultimate cheese board:

CHOOSE A THEME

“When choosing cheeses, I like to start with a theme,” Alli says. “Sometimes I like to focus on a different country or region, or explore one style or milk type and how different the cheeses can be even when they have that in common. The theme can also center around the accompaniments—which could be a color palette, or tropical fruits, or something seasonal.”

CONSIDER FLAVORS

“For pairings, I like to make a good compare/contrast combination,” she says. “I usually stick to odd numbers because the arrangements look more pleasing to the eye, and three or five cheeses is a good sweet spot without going overboard.”

For a board dedicated to local cheeses, she suggests these tried-and-true combinations:

Wm. Cofield McKinley Cheddar with apple chutney. “The McKinley Cheddar is great with apple chutney because the cheese is savory and salty, while the chutney has some savoriness to compare, with a lot of sweet and sour flavor to contrast. I also like that one because it is a classic British pairing.”

Mt. Eitan Moni soft-ripened goat-milk cheese with local honey

Bellwether Farms fresh sheep cheese coated with dried cranberries

Cowgirl Creamery Hop Along with Apple Cider Syrup or honey

Pt. Reyes Farmstead Fennel Blue with California dates

THINK LIKE A FOOD STYLIST

Arranging a spectrum of cheeses and accoutrements on a serving board might not come naturally to everyone. Alli suggests this standard operating procedure:

• Start with bowls for accoutrements, placing them an even distance from one another on the board.
• Add a “river,” such as a curved row of cheese triangles or charcuterie.
• Add the soft cheeses.
• Add the cheeses for crumbling.
• Arrange cut cheeses.
• Add bread and/or crackers.
• Add fresh and larger dried fruits.
• Fill in holes with smaller dried fruits, nuts, candy, etc.
• Decorate with fresh herbs and flowers.

Alli puts practice into play with the guests of her Cheeseboard Building Workshop at Gold Ridge Organic Farms in Sebastopol, where she takes a decidedly erudite-meets-inspired approach. Guests begin with an empty palm leaf “board” and an array of pre-cut cheeses and possible accoutrements. She leads with visual inspiration and solid information about different cheeses and tips on how to select and pair them. A trip to the culinary garden for floral and herbal garnishes provides a finishing touch. Guests take home a generous cheese board for two.

For Alli’s next cheeseboard workshop, visit GoldRidgeOrganicFarms.com/events.

“For pairings, I like to make good compare/contrast combinations. I usually stick to odd numbers because the arrangements look more pleasing to the eye, and three or five cheeses is a good sweet spot without going overboard.”