In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the guajillo and pasilla chiles and toast, turning as needed, for 1 to 2 minutes, or until fragrant. Do not allow them to turn black. Transfer the chiles to a plate. Add the tortilla to the pan and toast, turning as needed, for about 30 seconds on each side, or until pliable. Transfer to the plate with the chiles. Raise the heat to medium-high, add the onion and garlic, and cook, stirring often, for 5 to 7 minutes, or until fragrant and translucent. Remove from the heat and add to the plate.

In a blender, combine the chiles, tortilla, onion-garlic mixture, pineapple, orange juice, vinegar, oregano, cumin, cilantro, and salt and blend until smooth. Season with lime juice. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months. Makes about 1 cup.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, beat the egg whites on low speed until loose, about 1 minute. Add the cream of tartar and continue beating on low speed until the whites become frothy, about 2 minutes more. Gradually add the confectioners’ sugar and continue to beat until the icing holds a soft peak, about 2 minutes more. Add more confectioners’ sugar or egg whites as needed for thicker or thinner icing. Beat in vanilla or lemon juice, if desired.

Divide the icing into separate bowls for adding color, if desired. To add food coloring, use a toothpick to dab a small dot of color in the icing and mix to an even color with a rubber spatula, adding more as needed for hue. Use as directed. Makes enough for about 2 dozen cookies.

Place all ingredients in a large stockpot, except for the vinegar. Fill the pot with water, covering all ingredients, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and skim any foam that builds on the top. Add the vinegar. Simmer for 4–6 hours. Strain through cheesecloth and let cool completely. Once cool, skim any fat from the top. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Makes about 6 quarts.

Roughly chop the shallots, garlic, lemongrass, half of the serrano chile, and ginger. Sauté over high heat until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the sautéed vegetables to a food processor and blend with herbs until evenly combined. Mix in the fish sauce, lime juice and salt. Use at once, or store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Makes about 1 cup.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Place the onion and ginger on a rimmed baking sheet and roast until the onion is soft and beginning to ooze, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and let onion and ginger cool until they can be handled. Peel the onion (making sure to discard any blackened bits) and cut in half. Slice the unpeeled ginger (discard any skin that is blackened) into ¼-inch coins.

While the onion and ginger are roasting, blanch the bones: To ensure the pot is large enough to blanch the bones without boiling over, put the bones in the pot and add water to cover by 1 inch. Then remove the bones and bring the water to a boil. When it is at a rolling boil, add the oxtails, neck bones and shanks. Return the water to a boil and boil for 3 minutes. Drain the contents of the pot into a colander and rinse under cold running water. Rinse the pot and return the rinsed oxtails, neck bones and shanks to the pot. Add the marrowbones.

Add the onion halves, ginger slices, sugar, salt and 8 quarts fresh water to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any scum that forms on the surface. Lower the heat so the liquid is at a gentle simmer and simmer for 4 hours, skimming as needed to remove any scum that forms on the surface.

Add the pepper, cinnamon, star anise, clove and cardamom and continue cooking, skimming occasionally, for 1 hour longer.

Remove from the heat and, using a spider or a slotted spoon, discard the large solids. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a large container, let sit for a few minutes (or refrigerate overnight) then skim most of the fat from the surface (leave some, as it gives the stock a better flavor and mouthfeel). Use immediately, or let cool completely, then transfer to practical-size airtight containers, making sure that each container has a similar amount of fat to stock for balanced flavor. Refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 3 months. Makes about 6 quarts.

Spread the fish bones on a baking sheet and season with salt. Let stand for 5 minutes, then rinse with cold water.

In a large stockpot, combine the vegetables, spices and herbs. Add the fish bones, cold water and wine, then add the ice. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and let simmer for 45 minutes; do not boil.

Remove the stock from the heat and let steep for 15 minutes. Strain the soup through a fine chinois. Add the kombu. Store in the refrigerator for up to a week, or the freezer for up to 1 month; remove the kombu before freezing. Makes about 2 quarts.