Italian restaurants in San Francisco’s North Beach neighborhood used to be famous for their zabaglione (Italy’s counterpart to the French sabayon), whisking it to order for customers and spooning the warm, frothy wine custard into goblets. When chilled, then lightened with whipped cream, the same concoction makes a luscious, fluffy topping for summer’s juiciest berries.
WINE SUGGESTION: California late-harvest Semillon or Riesling
Ingredients
- 4 large egg yolks
- 2 tablespoons sugar, plus more if needed
- ½ cup late-harvest dessert wine, such as late-harvest Semillon or Riesling
- ½ cup heavy cream
- 1½ pounds mixed berries (strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, raspberries)
- 1 tablespoon sugar
Preparation
Prepare a large bowl of ice water.
Pour water to a depth of about 1-inch into the bottom pan of a double boiler and bring to a simmer. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer.
In the top pan of the double boiler, using a whisk or handheld electric mixer, whip the egg yolks and the 2 tablespoons sugar until pale. Set the top pan over the simmering water, making sure the bottom of the pan does not touch the water. (Or use a heatproof bowl that fits snugly over a saucepan of simmering water, again making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water.) Whip constantly until the mixture is light and thick, about 3 minutes. Add the wine gradually while whipping constantly, then continue to whip until the mixture is thick, pale, fluffy and roughly doubled in volume, 7 to 8 minutes. Do not let the mixture get too hot or the eggs may scramble; lower the heat if necessary or lift the upper pan for a few moments to cool slightly while continuing to whip.
Place the top pan of the double boiler in the ice water to chill quickly. Whisk the mixture occasionally to cool it faster.
When the egg mixture is cool, in a bowl whip the cream until soft peaks form. Taste the egg mixture, and if it is not as sweet as you would like (dessert wines vary considerably in sweetness), add 1 teaspoon or more sugar to the cream and continue whipping until firm peaks form. Fold the whipped cream into the cooled egg mixture. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 4 hours.
About this recipe
TO SERVE
About 20 minutes before serving, hull and slice the strawberries, if using. Combine all the berries in a bowl and sprinkle with the sugar. Toss gently with a rubber spatula and let stand for about 10 minutes to dissolve the sugar and draw out some juices.
Divide the berries and any juices among 6 stemmed glasses or compote dishes. Top each portion with a dollop of the sabayon, dividing it evenly. Serve at once.
