We make this hearty meat sauce with either veal (as here) or duck. Which of the two makes for a better ragu is often the subject of intense family debate. Both preparations pair beautifully with garganelli pasta—its tube shape and deep ridges creating the perfect vehicle for capturing the hearty sauce. If you can’t find dried garganelli, use penne rigate instead.
Ingredients
- 3½ – 4 lbs boneless veal shoulder, cut into 3-inch chunks
- Salt and freshly ground pepper
- ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
- ½ cup diced fennel
- ½ cup diced carrots
- ½ cup diced yellow onion
- 1½ cups dry red wine
- 2 (28-oz) cans Italian plum (San Marzano) tomatoes
- 4 cups chicken stock
- 2–3 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary
- 2–3 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
- 1½ pounds dried garganelli or penne rigate pasta
- Italian parsley leaves, finely chopped (optional)
Preparation
Preheat an oven to 300°F.
Pat the veal dry with paper towels, then sprinkle all over with salt and pepper. Warm ¼ cup of the olive oil in a Dutch oven or large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches if needed, add the meat and brown evenly on all sides, turning as needed, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
Add the remaining ¼ cup olive oil to the pan, then add the fennel, carrots and onion. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Add the red wine and cook, stirring to scrape up any caramelized juices from the bottom of the pan. Continue to cook until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the tomatoes, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the stock, rosemary and thyme. Bring to a boil over high heat, add the veal, then remove from the heat. Cover partially, place in the oven, and roast until very tender, about 4 hours. Using two forks, shred the meat.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the garganelli and cook according to package directions until al dente. Drain and return to the pot. Add the ragù and toss over low heat until the pasta is coated. Divide among individual serving bowls. Sprinkle each serving with parsley, if using. Serve with cheese at the table.
