Calistoga the outlaw town of Wine Country
To me, Calistoga is the “final frontier” of the Napa Valley, the rugged, rough-and-tumble, outlaw town of Wine Country.
To the untrained eye, it’s a sleepy little hamlet: an Old West–style downtown lined with tasting rooms and antique shops, set against a picturesque mountain backdrop. But beneath the façade there is a rich history with an eclectic cast of characters who have helped shape Calistoga into the wild, quirky little town it is today.
For centuries, humans have revered the unique geothermal features that characterize current-day Calistoga. The region’s original inhabitants, the Wappo Native Americans, recognized the healing properties of the region’s hot springs, mineral waters and muds, and regarded its active geyser as a holy site. In the late 1800s, others began to recognize it, too: the Spanish, Mexican and, finally, white settlers, who pushed the native population aside in the name of profit.
Legend has it that Samuel Brannan, a notorious imbiber and California’s first millionaire, named the town when he attempted to declare that he would make it “the Saratoga of California”—but spliced the words and called it “the Calistoga of Sarafornia,” instead. Brannan died drunk and penniless, but his legacy lives on in more than just the name. He built the town from the ground up, investing significantly in an infrastructure that laid the groundwork for modern-day Calistoga. This included a hot springs resort that drew hordes of society’s elite in search of rejuvenation, and a railroad to get them there.
On Brannan’s dime, Calistoga blossomed into a destination for those seeking escape: either in the form of healing mud baths or a stiff drink (it’s rumored that the town once had the highest number of bars per capita in the state). And those who chose to call it home were quite a motley crew: Donner Party survivors; Civil War vets; the first female San Francisco firefighter, Lillie Hitchcock Coit (yes, that Coit); Robert Louis Stevenson; and Charles Krug, to name a few.
Today, remnants of Brannan’s Calistoga remain throughout the town. Indian Springs Resort sits on the original site of his hot springs resort. Brannan Cottage Inn has preserved one of the resort cottages he built in 1862 for guests to stay in today (updated with modern conveniences, of course). Olabisi Wines tasting room makes use of the former hardware store, original architecture intact.
And the town continues to draw an eclectic cast of characters. Cozy up to the fire pit after dinner at Sam’s Social Club or pay a visit to the local dive bar, Susie’s, and you’ll find yourself in the company of eccentric locals, wine country hotshots, travelers from all over the world, and maybe even celebrities—the cast of recent Netflix hit “Wine Country” spent quite a bit of time in Calistoga while filming.
You can still find salvation in a healing mud bath, or maybe in a world-class glass of Cabernet Sauvignon. No matter how you choose to spend your time in Calistoga, you’re sure to find escape, adventure and a little bit of eccentricity. Welcome to the Wild West of Wine Country.
Where to Stay
For the luxury traveler…
Solage, an Auberge Resort, truly embodies the word “resort.” This is your no-holds-barred, all-out retreat experience and it is worth the investment. From the morning espresso on your private patio to the chocolate and muscle salve by your bed at night, you will be thoroughly treated. With complimentary fitness classes, a world-class spa, several pools and an award-winning restaurant, there’s no reason to leave the property. But if you’re seeking some Calistoga adventure, you can hop on one of the bikes parked outside of your residence or check out a car from their fleet of Mercedes. Sprawling lawns and shady oak trees make Solage one of the most beautiful places in Calistoga, and the proximity to incredible wineries and Calistoga’s downtown situate you perfectly for a dream weekend getaway.
For the adventure-seeker…
Great news: Motels are back, thanks to inventive reboots like Calistoga Motor Lodge. What was once your typical 1940s-era budget option on the outskirts of town has been transformed into one of the trendiest places to stay in Wine Country. Aside from the décor, which features fun touches everywhere (think activity boards reminiscent of summer camp, “no lifeguard on duty” signs by the bathtub, an embroidery piece declaring “no selfies in the bathroom”), their smattering of on- and off-property activities and bespoke itineraries has created a sense of adventure and community. True to Calistoga form, they offer a full menu of inventive treatments in their modern, updated spa and a family-friendly mineral pool.
For the history buff…
Set in the heart of downtown, Brannan Cottage Inn offers a glimpse into Samuel Brannan’s Calistoga. The property boasts the only Brannan resort cottage still standing on its original site, built in 1862. While the original architectural features are intact—look for the distinctive gabled gingerbread facade and peaked roof—the interiors and services have been dramatically (and breathtakingly) updated: rain showers and heated bathroom floors, a gorgeous continental breakfast (smoothies made to order!), in-room espresso machines and, in two of the rooms, private terraces and fireplaces. Additional upgrades include the Samuel Brannan Mercantile, offering guests a full coffee bar plus a selection of local goods, wines and artisanal products—best enjoyed picnic-style on their shaded patio.
Where to Taste
Wine Tasting
In the 1800s, Calistoga was mined (unsuccessfully) for gold. Since then, something much more profitable has been coaxed from the hills and valleys of the region: wine. More specifically, world-class Cabernet Sauvignon.
Calistoga was formed as a result of volcanic activity from 1 to 3 million years ago. This contributed to the mountainous terrain above the valley and the volcanic soil on the valley floor. These features, in tandem with the tendency for ocean fog to come from the west and valley fog from the south, make Calistoga an ideal and unique place to grow wine.
In 2010 it was designated its own AVA (American Viticultural Area), in recognition of its distinctiveness, but local winemakers have been in on the secret for far longer. Calistoga is home to some of the oldest vines in the Valley, some of which have never been watered by anything but natural rainfall. There is plenty of wine to be tasted in Calistoga, and it can be overwhelming to choose where to taste—so we’ve selected a few favorites to get you started.
In Town: Olabisi, Picayune, Tank Garage & Winery
Located in the original hardware store dating back to the 1800s, Olabisi has transformed the space into a bright, minimalist tasting room while keeping the original architecture intact. They are all about handcrafted wines made with fruit sourced from passionate farmers, and very limited production.
Husband-and-wife team Ted Osborne and Kim Wedlake have been producing under the label since 2002, before which Ted earned his stripes at Cakebread Cellars and Storybook Mountain. Their wines are approachable, elegant expressions of Calistoga and the Napa Valley, designed to highlight the character of the fruit and the place it was grown. Must-taste: their Sauvignon Blanc and 2015 Calistoga Cabernet Sauvignon.
As you continue down Lincoln Avenue, the main drag in Calistoga, you’ll notice an abundance of quaint antique, oddity and gift shops. Hold out for Picayune, where you’ll find handcrafted wines and hand-selected curios thanks to owner and winemaker Claire Ducrocq Weinkauf. As Claire says, everything in the shop is something she loves and would have in her own home. And that includes the wine.
The Sauvignon Blanc is a must-try, as the wine that launched the label in 2010, but since then Claire has expanded her range. The 2018 Hay Penny Rosé (a Provencal-style rosé inspired by Claire’s native France) and 2015 Pinot Noir are favorites, especially when enjoyed in Picayune’s funky, fun backyard area.
Nostalgia seems to be a theme in Calistoga, and Tank Garage & Winery is no exception. A converted 1930s-era gas station, Tank takes a playful, rock ’n’ roll approach to both the wines and the tasting experience, offering something truly unique: Each wine is a one-hit-wonder, a proprietary blend that is never repeated. With names like “Petty Cash,” “Yacht Rock” and “Backstage Pass,” you might think Tank is all about the gimmick, but their wine is as serious as it gets, handcrafted by two friends with a collective wealth of world-class Wine Country experience. Grab a seat at the “lubrication bar” to taste through something fresh and fun, and keep an ear out for live music in their speakeasy-style back room.
Off The Beaten Path: Amici, Phifer Pavitt
Venture up into the hills just five minutes outside of Calistoga and you’ll find a treasure trove of some of the Valley’s best Cabernet Sauvignons. Amici Cellars winemakers Anthony Biagi and Jesse Fox source grapes from some of the region’s most coveted vineyards and, with a deft hand in the cellar and a focus on showcasing the fruit, produce a killer lineup of wines. Their Cabernet Sauvignons are undoubtedly the stars of the show, with a portfolio of exceptional single-vineyard wines and a stellar, reasonably priced flagship blend, but they have a few tricks up their sleeve as well: The 2017 Reserve Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and a beautifully balanced 2016 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay are proof of their winemaking team’s versatility.
This fall Amici is offering a special retrospective tasting experience of select single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons, taking guests through a tasting of two library vintages followed by the corresponding current vintage, a barrel tasting and a tour of the winery.
Just off of Calistoga’s famed Silverado Trail, you’ll find a unique and beautiful tasting room born out of a love story. Phifer Pavitt is the result of many a date night discussion between wife-and-husband team Suzanne Phifer and Shane Pavitt, who opened the winery in 2010. The tasting room is housed in a 19th-century barn they relocated from Franz Valley and renovated with an ecofriendly, design-forward vision. The tasting bar is the centerpiece: a fallen black walnut slab suspended from the ceiling, overlooking an expanse of vineyards. Their Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon and Date Night Sauvignon Blanc are approachable, balanced expressions of the region—and perfect for date night.
Where to Eat & Drink
Good Eats, Stiff Drinks
Coffee: Yo El Rey Roasting is where you’ll want to go if you’re into great coffee and eclectic decor. With walls covered in poetry, famous literary quotes, song lyrics and sometimes nonsensical babbling, you won’t need to bring your own reading material. [Oh, they’re also an Edible Marin & Wine Country distribution point!] The 100% organic locally roasted coffee makes this the best spot in town for a pick-me-up.
Brunch: Go big with a brunch on the patio at Solbar. While you really can’t go wrong with any meal at this Michelin-guide mainstay, the return of Gustavo Rios as executive chef has breathed new life into the culinary program, and that includes an exceptional weekend brunch. Ingredients for both the food and cocktails are sourced from on-site gardens or local farms, and the poolside view can’t be beat on a hot Calistoga day. The Liberty Farms Duck Confit Hash, anything from their chilled seafood menu and a cocktail (or two) will get you perfectly acclimated to a Calistoga retreat.
Lunch: Chances are, if you’ve spent some time in Wine Country, you’ve heard someone laud the perfect pairing of wine and barbecue. Buster’s Original Southern BBQ is the place in Calistoga to soak up all that wine with some seriously good smoked meats. Highlights include the tri-tip plate and the beef ribs. Louisiana native Charles “Buster” Davis comes from a long lineage of cooks: his great-grandfather was a cook on a “free” Southern plantation, and his mother and uncle taught him to cook from a young age. The original recipes for Buster’s sauces, coleslaw, potato salad and macaroni salad come from his mother and sister, while his time in Ventura has added a Southern California twist to his Louisiana barbecue style. If you’re lucky, there will be live music on the back patio as you dig into your plate of house-smoked meats.
Dinner: Sam’s Social Club is a favorite among locals and visitors alike, and it’s the perfect place to wind down with a great meal after a day exploring Calistoga. The restaurant attached to Indian Springs Resort boasts a spacious, airy dining room, artful bar and an Instagram-worthy fire pit (perfect for after-dinner libations). You really can’t go wrong with anything on the menu here, but favorites are the compressed melons and prosciutto, housemade ricotta and piri piri pepper chicken.
Late night: Ask any local where to go after dark and they’ll point you in the direction of Susie’s, the town dive marked by its old school neon sign. Live music, a cast of eccentric characters and small-town gossip make this the perfect place to embody the spirit of Brannan himself.
Where to Play
• Ogle Old Faithful Geyser of California
• Trek up Table Rock
• Stroll through history at Sharpsteen Museum
Next time you’re planning a Wine Country weekend, take a chance on this quirky town at the top of the Valley. After a soak in the mud and a glass of Cabernet, you might just find yourself wanting to stay a while.
