IN SEASON: TOMATOES

We wait all year for that summer moment when ripe tomatoes appear in the markets. Today, unlike 30 or so years ago, we can find them in all shapes, colors and sizes. Finding your own favorite tomato varieties is a happy journey of discovery. My go-tos are Black Krim, Green Zebra, Cherokee, Sungold Cherry, Sweet 100 Cherry, Brandywine, Big Boy and Early Girl.

Although good, ripe, in-season tomatoes can be used more or less interchangeably, it’s good to know the best uses for each type. Color is not an indicator—except for the yet-to-mature green tomato—nor is size. There are myriad names for tomatoes, just like anything else, but their best use characteristics can be grouped according to type.

Slicers

Slicers are the juicy tomatoes where flavor is the priority. They come in many colors—gold, yellow, pale yellow, ivory, pink, crimson, dark red, bright red, green so dark it looks black, dark green, chartreuse, as well as striped and multicolored. Some are spheres, some round shouldered, others slightly oval. They can be the size of a golf ball or weigh up to a pound.

Slice these tomatoes fresh to serve on their own. They also make wonderful sauces, but because they have a lower solid-to-juice ratio than paste types, they take longer to cook and don’t render as much sauce per pound.

Slicers can also be grilled, roasted or fried but are more delicate to handle than the paste types and may start to fall apart. They are, however, excellent for stuffing because the juicy part is scooped out, and they also good halved for baking.

Roma, San Marzano or Paste Type

These have a high solid-to-juice ratio and are best for rendering the maximum amount of sauce per pound. They are also the tomato of choice for classic pico de gallo because they stay firm and retain their texture. These are typically red, though there are some Italian green-shouldered varieties. These types are good for roasting, grilling and frying because they hold their shape.

Cherry Tomatoes

Like slicers, these come in a wide variety of colors and sizes—some as tiny as marbles, others as large as plump grapes or crab apples. Some have narrow necks and rounded bases; others are round or oval. Cherry tomatoes are among the first to ripen and are quite flavorful, even when early. Use cherry tomatoes fresh, whole or halved or pan-fry them just until they burst. They can also be used to make a flavorful sauce, but that requires a lot of tomatoes, as they are quite juicy

TOMATO SIMPLICITY

Ripe, juicy summer tomatoes need little in the way of preparation to make any number of wonderful dishes. Here are a few of my favorites.

QUICK FRESH TOMATO SAUCE

Heat a little good olive oil in a saucepan or frying pan. Add chopped shallots and a little chopped garlic, if desired. Cook until soft, then add several chopped tomatoes (any kind), sprinkle with sea salt and simmer until a sauce forms and thickens, about 20 minutes. Add chopped basil, Italian pepper flakes or other options according to your taste. (Try thyme, roasted garlic, oregano, marjoram or winter savory.) Serve with pasta, polenta or as a sauce for steaks or lamb.

FRESH TOMATO VINAIGRETTE

Chop a small handful of cherry tomatoes (or another favorite tomato variety) and put in a salad bowl. Add a few tablespoons of olive oil, a teaspoon or two of minced shallots, minced chives, salt, pepper and a little red wine vinegar. Mash a little with a fork to get all the tomato juiciness, and serve.

BURST CHERRY TOMATOES

Heat a little good olive oil in a frying pan, add cherry tomatoes, sprinkle with salt and cook, stirring, until tomatoes just burst. Spoon over vegetables, eggs or fish to complement a main course. Or, for an appetizer, spoon the burst tomatoes over burrata, labneh or whipped ricotta seasoned with chopped oregano or marjoram and salt and pepper, then serve with toasts.

BROILED TOMATOES

Choose medium-sized slicer tomatoes, cut them in half crosswise, then sprinkle with a mixture of salt, pepper, minced garlic, minced fresh parsley and breadcrumbs. Drizzle with olive oil and bake at 400°F until the tops are golden and the tomatoes just starting to settle, about 15 minutes.