It’s always a thrill to see heirloom varieties of fruits and vegetables called out on market signs and restaurant menus. The trend away from mass-produced ingredients— “efficiently” grown, harvested and marketed but oftentimes lacking in the true flavor of the thing—continues, especially in our area. A standout among these is Sonoma County’s own historic Gravenstein apple, planted in the region since the 1800s. Although it’s juicy and tasty eaten out of hand (like most apples), it really shows off when used culinarily. Gravensteins are among the very best apples for baking as they hold their shape and maintain their flavor, adroitly balanced between sweet and tart.
During the summer season, local aficionados bake up sweet pies and crisps, pandowdies and crumbles for any and every occasion. Cooked down with a little water, maybe a squeeze of lemon and a touch of sugar, the apples also transform into lush applesauce. Many thousands of pounds are also processed for cider, both soft and hard, in our area.
I’d like to further extoll the virtues of the fruit for use in savory dishes. Gravensteins are excellent for sauteing and baking whole because of their ability to hold their shape and flavor during cooking. Additionally, they absorb the flavor of the fat from whatever they are cooked with, enhancing but not overpowering the fruit.
Classics such as roast goose or roast suckling pig surrounded by apples were a mainstay of celebratory tables a century or so ago, but the flavors can easily be adapted for today using more modest cuts, such as chicken thighs or pork chops.
Gravenstein apples peeled, sliced and sauteed along with sliced onions and served on top of thick, pan-fried pork chops is a favorite in my house. If I’m able to find a guinea hen (special order from the butcher), I roast it surrounded with cored Gravenstein halves, along with halved onions, but a chicken will do as well.
You’ll find one of my favorite savory apple recipes, garnered from a bistro in Reims, France, and ideally suited for Gravenstein season in this issue.
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